32 Days in Germany

Food:

1) Asparagus. Did you know that white asparagus existed? I sure didn’t. Germans eat white asparagus almost exclusively – and a lot of it.

2) Doner Kebab. Doner kebab is to Europe what the burrito is to America. Furthermore, Germany is to the doner kebab what California is to the burrito. Just like burritos taste better in California than they do in Mexico, so too does doner kebabs. They taste better Germany than they do in Turkey – or so I’ve been told.

3) Breads. Bread is to German what cheese is to France. Incredible variety. In fact, Germany has over 300 types of bread. German breads are tasty and textured and are sold unsliced. Simply world-class.

4) Sparkling water. I’ve been to many countries that drink sparkling water. However, Germany drinks an incredible amount of sparkling water.

5) Beer. I’ve been to many countries that drink beer. However, Germany drinks an incredible amount of beer. So much so that they say, “Munich is to beer drinkers what Las Vegas is to gamblers.”

Germany’s beer culture is tremendous. Beers are frothy. Beers are poured until they overflow out of humongous mugs. Each different variety of beer is designated a particular glass. It says that every beer is special. It says that every beer is an individual.

Most eye-opening is Germany’s right to drink beer in public. Germans carry racks of cold-ones to the park. They drink bottles of beer on street corners. Germans drink beer on a 10 AM train. If you were to ask me: Would you rather have the right to own an AK-47 or drink a tall-boy in public – I’d pick the latter.

6) Beer halls. A German is beer hall is like a merger between an English pub and a banquet hall restaurant. Beer halls are huge spaces. They have high ceilings and communal-sized, wooden tables. A proper beer hall’s atmosphere feels authentic. They frequented by local members of the community. In fact, some beer halls have attached daycare centers.

A beer garden is different. It’s like a convertible beer hall. When the weather gets nice, the frothy beer drinking moves outdoors.

Culture:

1) Berlin. San Francisco meets Detroit. The flavor and flamboyantness of San Fran mixed with Detroit’s grit, cheap rents and the fading glory of a once grand city. Berlin’s openly-gay major describes it as, “poor but sexy”. Berlin is one of Europe’s best cities.

(Here is a great BBC documentary on the history of Berlin)

2) Exactness. I’m positive that a word for mas-o-menos doesn’t exist in the German language. I find Germans to be very exact. My mother and I learned that Berlin has exactly 1084 trees in the city center. A tour guide told us that the Neuschwanstein Castle had exactly 33 steps between the first and second floor. A resident of Dresden informed us that the train station is exactly 9.15 meters above the normal river line. She concluded, therefore, that we will safe from the flood waters. At the time, they reached 8.3456315 meters high.

3) David Hasselhoff. The Hoff is a man of influence in Germany. For 8 weeks in 1989, his hit single Looking for Freedom was #1 in Germany. Today, still, the jacket he wore during his Berlin Wall performance has influenced the design of the federal security jackets. Hoff, if you are reading this, listen up. Return to Germany. You’re a legend in Deutschland.

4) Green. Germany is the world’s environmental role model. Wind turbines and houses outfitted with solar panels are common sites throughout the country. German has over 22,000 wind turbines. 8 out of 10 Germans own a bicycle. Recycling bins are omnipresent. Carrying groceries in reusable bags is second nature. Germany is demonstrating to the world how being Green can be sexy.

Experiences:

1) Bundesliga. Just saying Bundesliga tickles the tongue. Germany’s national football league is regarded as arguably Europe’s best football league. I went to a match in Berlin. The fans were passionate. The tickets were cheap. The beer was cold. I’m a fan for life.

2) Reading long words. German words are incredibly long. Mark Twain called it ridiculous. German words are long because the language combines multiple words thereby creating one really long word. For example:

Freundschaftsbezeigungen – “demonstrations of friendship.”
Rechtsschutzversicherungsgesellschaften – “insurance companies providing legal protection.”

3) Car museums. My mother and I visited three car museums. The BMW museum in Munich was terrible. Too discombobulated. The Porsche museum in Stuttgart was sweet, but a little too short. Ah but, the Mercedes-Benz museum in Stuttgart. It was just right. Weaving the car company’s history into historical events was brilliant. Oh yeah, the cars were real snazzy too.

4) Driving a Porsche. A friend of mine made one of my dreams come true. He let me drive his restored 1961 356 Porsche. The 356 is the original Porsche – the model James Dean drove. Starting the car from the left side ignition, I drove that hot red sports car through the northern German countryside. The top down. The pedal down. Wind in my hair. It was a good day.

Two American Originals

The good times keep on rolling. Our Grand Tour arrived in France. We spent 23 days exploring this fabled nation. We covered virtually the entire country, eating and drinking well the entire time. Here are some of the highlights:

Food:
1) Exoticness. The French make strange things taste good: Escargot (snails). Pâté de Foie Gras (finely ground duck liver) and Caviar (fish eggs). We tried it all.

2) Bouchons. A bouchon is a type of restaurant found in Lyon, France. They serve traditional Lyonnaise cuisine, such as sausages, duck pâté or pig stomach. My most memorable meal was the calf head. If a chef has the guts to put calf head on the menu then I should have the stomach to eat it. So I did.

Calf Head

3) Cheese. A French cheese shop is a like a festival of delicious mold. There were so many different types: Cheese from goats. Cheese from sheep. Cheese covered in ash. We tried fresh and aged cheeses. We tried cheeses with very little smell and some pungent enough clear a room.

Cities and Architecture:
1) Pedestrians. The French build cities for the people. They have done it in different ways. Bordeaux overloaded the city with traffic lights to make driving cumbersome. Montpellier has 12,000 parking spaces surrounding the city to make pedestrianism mandatory. Paris has a fantastic metro system. Seemingly, all cities have grand promenades for the people to leisurely stroll.

2) Parks. 129 years later, Geroges Seruet’s painting A Sunday Afternoon is still spot on. French parks are like no other place in the world. They attract the young and the old, students, businessmen, friends and lovers. I love them.

A Sunday Afternoon

3) Lighting. French cities light up at night. It’s not just the sheer volume of street lamps, it’s their style. French street lamps are reminiscent of scenes of 19th century gas lanterns. The soft glow of these lights makes these cities even more enchanting at night.

4) Chateaus. Chateaus cover the countryside. All of them are absolutely lovely.

5) Apartment buildings. I love the tall residential buildings with sandstone color facades and white trim. French glass double-doors lead out to intricate wrought iron balconies. The roofs are a charcoal color and sloped like the top of a chateau. Incredibly beautiful.

Culture:
1) Time spent eating. The French spend more time eating than any other people in the world – 2 hours a day. By comparison, Americans and Mexicans spend about half that. The French eat very slowly, just enough to appease their appetite. They do not inhale their food like the people of many other cultures do. For the French, meals are a time to socialize.

2) The little things. The French do the little things well. It’s the afternoon picnic with a baguette, cheese and a bottle of Bordeaux wine. It’s the high-quality wicker seating at the outdoor cafes. It’s the lovely ambience from their street lights. It’s the fluffiness of their croissants. It’s the flattering cut of their clothes or splash of color in their scarfs. Great detail goes into the smallest of things. This is why I believe the French have great taste.

3) French women. They’re created differently. As Helena Frith Powell writes about in her book, Two Lipsticks and a Lover, women in France look just as glamorous in a T-shirt and pair of jeans as in a sleek designer dress. They look sexy, chic and timelessly elegant from eighteen to eighty.

There are brains behind the beauty. French women are well-read. They make a point of being cultured – attending new exhibits at art galleries or going to the opera. They’re a tasteful blend of femininity and intelligence.

Johnny Depp left his wife for a French woman. Now I can see why.

4) Language. In 2006, Jacques Chirac walked out of a EU meeting because the French representative addressed the group of Europeans in English. This tells you all you need to know about the French. They are extremely proud of their language.

I was always addressed in French. The French person would switch to English as a last resort. At the end of the conversation, something funny would often happen. The person would try to speak French with me. Just to make sure that within the 2 minutes that had elapsed I had not miraculously learned to speak French.

I hate learning French. But, I love to listen to it.

Experience:
1) Moulin Rouge. The circus meets a cabaret show. Gymnasts perform magnificent feats. Ladies with ballet figures do the can-can – often topless. It’s 3 hours of world-class entertainment. It should not to be missed.

2) Tasting wines. It could be argued that France is one giant vineyard. Nearly every region produces their own unique style of wine. In Bordeaux, we investigated their world-renowned blends. In Burgundy, we drank Ponit Noir. In Champagne, we drank the bubbly stuff.

Two interesting things we learned: A) French wine labels rarely list the grape varietal(s). Wine drinkers are expected to know. B) It was interesting when a cab driver listed the best vintages of the past decade: 2005, 2009 and 2010. Even common folk know their wine in France.

3) Outdoor cafes. French do cafes better than anyone else in the rest of the world. High-quality chairs are decorative and made of wicker. Seating is plentiful. Entire city blocks are lined with people sitting outside smoking a cigarette and sipping on an aperitif or espresso. It’s incredible.

4) Trains. They’re more expensive than buses and flights in Europe. But, it’s by far the best way to see France. There is something soothing about listening to the click-clack sound of a rolling train. I loved looking out my window watching the vineyards turn into mustard colored fields.

In France, it is easy to sneak into first class. We made it 80% of the time without getting caught.

Omaha Beach Memorial

5) D-day. I’ll never forget standing on the beach at Normandy. It was just like the opening scene in Saving Private Ryan. I pictured 18 – 25 year old men at 6:30 AM on June 6th 1944. They stood in straight lines in their landing craft as they approached the shore. Nearly all of them vomiting from the rough waters of the English Channel and their tense nerves before battle.

Once the front ramp dropped, intense machine gun fire started killing the lines of soldiers. The soldiers in the rear jumped over board. Many of them drowned from the weight of their 100 pound packs. The remaining young men sprinted for their lives. They ran the length of several football fields in soft sand. There were landmines and barb wire and unrelenting machine gun fire. 85% of the soldiers in the initial waves at Omaha Beach died that morning – over 2,500 in total.

The most powerful aspect of that day was learning the soldiers’ stories. The museum displays photos of many of the young men. They have the letters that were written to love ones before the historic battle. In their letters, they told mothers not to worry. They told their wives that they loved them. They apologized to their new-born babies that they never had the chance to meet.

Seeing the faces and reading the letters of the fallen soldiers is powerful. It’s enough to make any grown man cry. These men, younger than me, were so brave. They sacrificed their lives on a foreign soil – thousands of miles from home. They will forever be heros.

Irish – Talkative
Italian – Expressive
Americans – Energetic
Mexicans – Prideful
Colombians – Polite
Panamanians – Boisterous
Welsh – Congenial
Germany – Organized
Chinese – Industrious
Argentinian – Confident
English – Civil
Guatemalans – Courteous
Costa Ricans – Peaceful
Canadians – Easy-going
Australians – Rambunctious
Cubans – Resourceful
Dutch – Open-minded
French – Sophisticated
Israeli – Shrewd
Moroccans – Engaging
Indians – Traditional
Spaniards – Conquistadores
Swedish – Bright
Vietnamese – Persevering

Now, help me out. These are some nationalities that I couldn’t think of with an educated response. Remember before you blow up the comment box with a derogatory response, recall what your mama taught you, “If you can’t say anything nice, don’t say anything at all.”

Brazilians
Scottish
Greeks
South Korean
Japanese
Kiwis (New Zealanders)
Chileans
Venezuelans
South Africans
Turkish
Thai
Russians
Hungarians
Swiss

Food:
1) Aperitivo in Milan. It’s a sophisticated Italian spin on Happy Hour. 7 Euros each bought us a glass of red wine and unlimited access tasty tapas.
2) Quattro Cavalli in Palermo, Sicily. This trendy restaurant was recommended by our host Giuseppi (more on him later). We ate fantastic dishes like pasta with sardines and stuffed calamari. The meal was superb; the price even better.
3) Slow Food in Catania. The Slow Food movement is the adherence to traditional recipes and cooking techniques. Our meal included my first time trying Sicily Donkey and a delicious ravioli.
4) Sofia in Rome. This was my mom’s favorite. Read here glowing TripAdvisor review here.

Worst meal: We fell into a tourist trap in Rome. The economical prices and 10 positive TripAdvisor reviews lured us in. However, the food was terrible. Two lessons were reinforced from the experience. First, splurge on food in Italy. It’s what it takes to get the good stuff. Secondly, don’t trust a limited number of TripAdvisor reviews. They’re all written by the owner’s friends.

Architecture:
1) Venice. It’s the world’s most interesting city. Water canals replace cars; side streets are the width of a wingspan. Venice is an urban maze with the piece of cheese being Piazza San Marco. Incredible.
2) Piazza del Campo in Siena. An absolutely lovely plaza. It’s a wonder how twice a year they turn the plaza into a horse-racing track.
3) Rome’s monuments and fountains. Seemingly around every corner an ancient gigantic monument or fountain awaits.

Accommodation:
1) Hostel Of The Sun in Naples. It has the price, facilities and solid service of a hostel while offering the private rooms furnishing of a mid-range hotel. Their staff was instrumental in my Italiano Pizzeria Internship (story to be told soon).
2) Ai Quattro Canti in Palermo. The host Giuseppi should be Sicily’s Minister of Tourism. He gave us a great overview of Palermo. His food recommendations were spot-on. Most importantly, one night he walked down to a restaurant to find us. He wanted to make us we knew how to get back home. His hospitality was outstanding.
3) Farmhouse in Tuscany. Staying in a rustic apartment attached to a farmhouse in the gorgeous Tuscan countryside was a bit of a splurge. But it – combined with the cooking class – was one of our most memorable experiences in Italy.

Worst Accommodation: Sleeping on an overnight Italian train. The entire night our cabin was hotter than a pizza oven.

Experience:
1) Cooking class in Tuscany. Learning how to prepare pasta and gnocchi from scratch inside the kitchen of an Italian grandmother – priceless.
2) Italino Pizzeria Internship in Naples. The story coming soon…
3) Sign language haircut in Sicily. My mom spoke no Italian. The flamboyant hairdresser spoke no English. Somehow, a great haircut took place.

Culture:
1) Espresso bars. Ordering “un café” (espresso) for 1 Euro and sipping it at the bar counter astounds me. I did it everyday. Going to Starbucks will never be the same (I may never return).
2) Good and cheap wine. Affordable quality wines are abundant. I especially love that fact that upscale restaurants offer 1 liter of vino della casa for under 10 Euros. And it’s good!
3) Public drinking water fountains. In the age of water privatization/commercialization, it’s refreshing to see Italian cities offer free drinking water from public fountains. Bravo!
4) Cheap trains. Italy is not cheap. But their regional trains must be the most affordable in all of Western Europe.
5) Prego. Prego tomato sauce covered my mother’s spaghetti that I ate as a young boy. In Italy, the word literally translates to “I pray”. It’s used for “how can I help you?”, “you’re welcome”, a dozen other social situations.
6) Generosity with food. Their portions have blown me away. Even at food farmer markets, locals have nonchalantly handed me large hunks of food as to say, “Go ahead and try it. I know you’ll love it.”

If Italy and I dance again, I’ll be sure to explore other parts of the country. This includes Verona, Sardinia and small towns around Sicily and Tuscany. Bello, absolutely Bello!

Photos of the trip to Italy are on EyeOnTheRoad’s Instagram account here.

I enjoyed my time in Cyprus. There are three things that I think Cyprus can teach us:

Diet: Cyprus is located very close to Greece in the eastern Mediterranean. So close that most of Cyprus speaks Greek and follow Greek traditions. In the must-read article, The Island Where People Forget To Die the NYTimes reports about the incredible life expectancy of the people in the small Greek Island, Ikaria. One of the key components to their longevity is believed to be diet – vegetables from the garden, legumes and greens, and plenty of olive oil. The little meat and alcohol consumed are produced locally. People from this region of the Mediterranean basically feed themselves through subsistence farming.

In contrast, too much of the world has a terrible diet. We eat too much meat that has been injected with hormones. We consume grains that have been genetically modified. We shop at grocery stores that are loaded with processed foods like frozen dinners and sugary cereals. We guzzle sugar-filled drinks like Coke, Gatorade and Lipton Ice Tea.

Too many food options around the world are unhealthy. Meanwhile, eastern Mediterranean diet comes from their local gardens. We should eat like this as well.

Meze Restaurants: My mom and I tried the traditional Cyprian way of eating at a wonderful restaurant called 7 St. Georges Tavern. They served us small plates consisting of many different dishes. Cold dishes carried small servings of olives, artichokes, marinated beets, and pickled capers. A round loaf of fresh baked grainey bread filled a basket. The meat dishes included chicken, lamb and octopus. We washed it all down with red table wine made from homegrown grapes.

My favorite part of the restaurant was its concept: No menus and no limits. Simply the waiter – the chef-owner George’s son – asked if we had any dietary restrictions. After that, delicious small dishes flowed out of the kitchen at a slow pace until we said stop. The Meze menu changes daily depending what is fresh and in stock.

Restaurants with extensive menus bother me. How do I know what is fresh and good? Chefs should know best. At St. George’s, the chef-owner leads guests through the local cuisine. I love this style because I try foods that I’d normally never order. In this case, it was the chicken liver pate which was delicious.

Oceanfront Walkways: Cyprus has miles and miles of a pedestrian oceanfront path. The path runs directly along the Mediterranean. There are no hotels built in front of it. There are no highways nearby. Just a never ending ocean view, and the sounds of the sea. A glorious walk we did daily.

Lovely walking paths like these encourage pedestrianism. They are a public good. Everyday, we saw Cyprians walking along the path, both young and old. I wish there were many more of them around the world.

We are now in Sicily. From here, we’ll hug the temperate coastline until there are signs of spring. We’re convinced that the European groundhog will see his shadow indicating an early spring. Until next time…

Ten days after concluding our house sitting assignment in Shropshire, we would fly to Cyprus. Ten days all to ourselves and without a plan of what to do. There were a great many possibilities. We had already spent a week in London before going to Shropshire. It was likely very cold in Scotland. Perhaps, we should head south to Oxford or Bristol. After considering several options, we decided to see southern Wales. It was a great decision.

Wales is, perhaps, the least talked about area of the United Kingdom. Yet Wales is surprisingly welcoming and beautiful. We traveled to 3 of Wales’ coastal cities. We head first to west Aberystwyth by train from Shrewsbury, England.

We arrived in Aberystwyth late afternoon. Evan had arranged for us to stay in a guesthouse within walking distance to the center of town. The guesthouse was the only disappointment in Aberystwyth. The upkeep was lacking and breakfast was not available. Ah well, we would not be staying long. We were quickly off to see the town which was in easy walking distance and charming. Located on the Celtic Sea, there is a beautiful walk along the harbor and remains of castle to explore.

Our first stop was the tourist center. This was manned by a delightful woman who was perfectly suited to helping tourists feel welcomed. She thoroughly explained the map of the town and its sights. Since it was past 5 PM and the town shops were closing, we walked back toward the guesthouse looking for a place for dinner. We decided on a pub, Scholars, close to the guesthouse. Pubs are a great place for dinner for the budget-minded. Many offer 2 dinners for less than 10 pounds with selections from Steak & Ale pie, Faggots, Bangers & Mash, Fish & Chips, and other Welsh favorites. It’s the perfect comfort food in cold weather after a long day.

The next morning we were up early and on our way to see the sights. We walked the full length of the harbor and viewed the castle area. By noon, we were ready to hike up the hill to the National Library. Aberystwyth is able to boast it has the only National Library in all of Wales.

Evan who continually presses me onward, and in this case uphill as well, had us walk. Making it to the library was worth it. The library was impressive. It is possible to trace your Welsh ancestry and search archival data bases. It is also one of best cared for public buildings I have ever visited. The entire place gleams. When I remarked on this to a security guard, he blushed with pride.

On our walk back to the guesthouse, a haberdashery caught our eye with wool sport coats in the window. We decided to have a look. Without a doubt, a wool herringbone sport coat suits Evan. After thinking about it overnight, we bought it the next morning. It looks great on him!

Our next destination in Wales was Swansea. We arrived in Swansea before dinner time. This time the guesthouse, Leonardo’s, was spotless and included breakfast. We were able to nestled in comfortable beds with down comforters. Nothing feels so cozy as to be warm on cold night.

Swansea Guesthouse

While Aberystwyth is considered a town, Swansea is a legitimate city. A strategic shipping location, Swansea was heavily bombed by the Nazis. As a result there is a newness to Swansea, if you consider post World War II new.

Our most memorable experience while staying in Swansea was the Gower Peninsula. A mere 45 minutes bus ride away from Swansea’s city center. Rolling hills of sheep pastures and hedgerows wind through a series of villages and whistle stops.

At the tip of the peninsula is the small village of Rhossilli. We were knocked sideways by the magnitude of the view. The Celtic Sea appears endless. Sharp cliffs of black rock jut out along the shore. They’re dotted with patches of emerald green with grazing sheep. This has to be one of the most beautiful places in the world.

Gower Peninsula

Our last stop in Wales was Cardiff. We took the Greyhound Express from Swansea for less than half the fare of the train and arrived in comfort.

The bustling city of Cardiff is the capital of Wales. We booked ourselves into Nos Da Hostel opposite the Millennium Stadium on the river boardwalk. It was my first stay in hostel. I was pleasantly surprised. Nos Da was very clean and comfortable with a friendly staff.

We had planned to stay in Cardiff two days but stayed four. It is a very livable city that has managed to both modernize and preserve its history.

We were very glad to have taken the guided tour of the Millennium Stadium which is definitely the pride of the city. The Welsh are keen on their rugby which is played at the Stadium. The tour took us into the locker rooms, the press box, and through the player’s entrance to the stadium as a recorded cheer of 70,000 fans rang in our ears. We visited a VIP suite, and the President’s box which seats the Royal Family when in town. The whole process of readying the stadium for various events was explained since the stadium also is used for concerts, motor cross, and various rallies. We agreed their recent award for Best Stadium was well deserved.

Millennium Stadium

The next day we headed to Cardiff Castle. I convinced Evan we should have a guided tour rather than just wander through. Cardiff Castle for centuries was inhabited for centuries by several powerful families. Under the ownership of the first Marquee of Bute, a coal baron, the castle was redecorated and modernized in 1800′s. The result is awe inspiring. The Marquee spared no expense nor ignored any detail.

Since on the top of my to-do list in Wales was to hear a Welsh Male Choir, we headed to the Tourist Center with the Millennium Center to inquire. Once again, the friendliest and willingness of the staff was extraordinary. The clerk reviewed every performance schedule. When none were performing, she suggested and checked for rehearsals times. Finding one, she called, obtained permission for our attendance, and map out our route by train. Outstanding service!

For me, it was the most precious experience of our travels. We welcomed by the director and several members of the choir and listened while they worked on the harmony of new performance song. After their break and before we left, they sang one of their traditional Welsh hymns for our enjoyment solely. BRAVO!!!!

Welsh Male Choir

Our original plan had been to travel from Wales to Bristol and Oxford before leaving for Cyprus. We did not. Instead we stayed longer in Cardiff and were sad to go. We had fallen in love with Wales and its citizens. My lasting impression of Wales is that it is filled with friendly people who truly go out of their way to be welcoming and helpful. We met them everywhere. Another is that they value what they have and care for it.

An underdog quarterback is the perfect hero to bring prominence to an obscure sports city. I’ve been excited about this 5’10” 5/8 undersized quarterback named Russell Wilson since he was the 75th pick last year’s draft. This too-small quarterback is proving to the NFL’s East Coast biased media that the Seattle Seahawks are legit. I’m fired up about it – even as I travel around the world.

Over the past 50 years, Seattle has won only a single championship in any major league sport, the 1979 Supersonics. Obviously that NBA title didn’t mean much. 30 years later the Sonics were stolen by Oklahoma City.

During the late 1990s/early 2000s, the Mariners had a brief period of being competitive. These teams had star players like Ken Griffey Jr. and Ichiro Suzuki – yet zero titles. The Seahawks made a Super Bowl appearance in 2006. The Seahawks almost won, despite playing against the Pittsburgh Steelers and the referees!

The sad fact remains that the tremendous city of Seattle has a single championship. Boston, on the other hand, has had 7 sports titles since 2002: Patriots 01, 03, 04, Red Sox 04, 07, Celtics 08, Bruins 11. Seattle is desperate for a sports hero to lead them to Titletown.

Every expert has called Russell Wilson too short. Conventional wisdom in the NFL states that successful quarterbacks must be taller than 6’2”. A 6’0” Super Bowl champ like Drew Brees is the outlier. Surely a 5’10” 5/8 quarterback has zero chance of leading his team to a championship.

Wilson knows that his height makes him a lifelong underdog. He knows that he is a winner. He has become outstanding at every intangible. His work ethic is unmatched. He shows up every morning at 6:30 AM to study film and is the last player to leave the team facilities. He has stated “the separation is in the preparation” so much that he has made it his own personal cliche.

Wilson is a great leader. Before games he walks through the Seahawks locker room, shaking hands with every player. During the game, he maintains the same calm facial expression if the Seahawks are up 34 – 14 or down 24 – 10. In post-game interviews, Wilson deflects any personal praise toward the team. He concludes those interviews by looking into the TV cameras and shouting, “Go Hawks!”

These leadership qualities are exceptional for a 43-year-old senator, let alone for a 24-year-old rookie quarterback. Russell Wilson is an old-soul.

Wilson’s story is fun to compare to the movie The Hobbit. There is a video mash-up of The Hobbit’s trailer overlapped with Wilson/Seahawk clips. Wilson is short and stealthy like Bilbo Baggins. He leads a pack of rag-tag of Seahawks – who like the dwarfs – are a bunch of misshaped and oddly sized players. Indeed, the 49ers are the Dark Side. After listening to the head coach in an interview, few would dispute that Jim Harbaugh is slightly possessed by evil. And seeing middle linebacker Patrick Willis with a blacked-out visor and muscles-on-top-of-muscles physic tells me that he has to be an Orc.

Typically when I’m traveling, I prefer to follow local media. This time in Europe, I’ve changed my news source from PBS and NYTimes to the BBC. Instead of watching most American sports, I’ve been following the English Premium League.

But like I said earlier, there is something special about these Seahawks lead by Russell Wilson. Every Sunday my top priority is watching the Seahawks.

When I lived in Panama, I turned off my phone during Seahawks games. While watching the NFL at my friend’s house in Costa Rica, the single TV had on the Jets playing the Jaguars. This did not worry me because I came prepared. I sat in the corner near the Christmas tree while watching the Seahawks blow out the Cardinals on my streaming laptop.

In Guatemala, I arrived at the airport 6 hours early to attempt to change my flight to Houston. Houston’s airport has a fantastic VIP lounge equipped with high-speed internet ideal for streaming the game. Even though the early flight had seats available and I was a platinum member, I was not allowed to board. They said it was because I was flying with points. Screw You, United Airlines!

In England, I drank a pot of caffeinated tea awaiting the 1 AM kickoff vs the 49ers. After kickoff, adrenalin kept me up to see the Seahawks spank their arch rival. In Wales, I sat downstairs in the kitchen of the guesthouse long after midnight to watch the Seahawks vs Redskins game. The kitchen had the strongest internet signal. I screamed like a little girl as the Seahawks overcame a 14 – 0 deficit to advance further in the playoffs.

The upcoming playoff game with Atlanta has affected my travel plans as well. I’m staying an extra night in Wales’ capital city of Cardiff (quite lovely actually) and delaying my trip back to London. The Cardiff hostel has superb internet signal. I’m unsure of the wifi situation in the London hotel. I can’t be compromised.

To those of you with no interest in the Seahawks/NFL, do yourself a favor. Keep an eye on my boy, Russell Wilson. Its a story that extends beyond the game of football. Every week that Wilson wins, it’s another victory for the underdog. Every step that the Seahawks take towards winning a Super Bowl is a ray of hope for America’s most deserving sports city. Go Hawks!

For a person like me who loves Dickens, Bronte, Austen, and Christie, the opportunity to stay in an English cottage for the holidays is irresistible. I actually prayed when I responded to the house sitter request on Trusted Housesitters when the notice appeared last July. House Sitter wanted for 2 weeks during Christmas holidays in Shropshire – care for 2 dogs and a cat while living in country cottage.

I immediately wrote all about Evan and I, waited for a reply. I was thrilled to have our profile make it to the top of the responds and soon was chatting with Claire on a Skype video call. Wonderful technology! We agreed on everything.

Evan and I arrived by train in Shrewsbury which is town in Shropshire from London on December 21. Hardly an easy trip both because of the holidays but mainly because flooding in much of Wales and the southern England. After having our scheduled trains delayed and cancelled, we finally arrived in Shrewsbury where Claire was waiting. Her cottage is approximately 6 miles from Shrewsbury on winding narrow roads.

Since Evan intended to use the time here to focus on completing his second book, and I am still a bit timid about driving in England, we opted not to rent a car. Claire instead took us into town in the morning where we stock up on groceries and let us know that her neighbor, Helen was available should we need anything. Once all was explained, she was off on her trip, leaving Evan and I to enjoy her home, precious pets, and views of an area of, “Unparalleled Natural Beauty”.

Indeed it is complete with rolling green pastures, hedged line roads, and pitched roof stone country manors. All of which I enjoy each day as I walk the dogs who have become my very steadfast friends. Gus, the cat, does not walk with us but instead makes his way to my lap when I cuddle up to read by the fire.

Our time here has not just been spent in the house or walking. Helen the neighbor invited us to a traditional Boxing Day event, a Fox Hunt. Although they are no longer able to hunt foxes much to the chagrin of country folk, the tradition continues with the hunters pursuing a drag. All look exactly as I have seen so many times in movies – riders, horses, and hounds. It was a special day.

We have also had a visit from Evan’s friends, Matthew and Anette who he met in Panama. Matthew is English and agreed to show us a medieval English town. We spent the afternoon with pair touring Ludlow which has preserved a good deal of its historic buildings and massive cathedral. The cathedral dates back to 1250 and has some of the most impressive stain glass windows in all of Britain. We also walked through a castle which although not preserved in its full grandeur, did bring to mind times of King Arthur.

We are loving our time here, cold raining weather and all. I love house sitting and hope to continue to accept assignments as we travel and even when Evan is not with traveling with me. I am able to feel what is like to live in an area and meet the people who do. I feel productive and useful caring for others homes and pets. I can put my feet up at night, putter around in a kitchen, and not worry about check out times.

I really take in the beauty of an area and learn my way around. Shop in local markets. Chat with neighbors. Walk and walk. Indeed I think I will be sad to leave but excited to see more. I am especially looking forward to our next house sit which is in Cyprus.

See more photos here

We have arrived in London. Both Evan and my flights were long and tiring. Mine, however, was comfortable. I am a new fan of Icelandaire. The seats had both plenty of leg room and seat space.  Even wedged between 2 men from Seattle to Iceland I had enough room to be comfortable. If you did not need to purchase head phones the movies were free with a wide selection of entertainment options. Arriving in Iceland to change flights was an interesting experience, however, since although arriving at nearly 7 AM it was pitch black outside and continued to be dark  at 9:00 AM when I left.

Evan waited for me at the arrivals gate at London’s Heathrow Airport. He had arranged for our first splurge, a taxi to Shoreditch – Cost for the trip 50 Pounds which equals $81. We kept dinner cheap and ate kebas for 10 Pounds. Exhausted we went to bed early.

Rather than book hotel accommodations we have opted to share space in a private home.  Staying in Naseem’s home the up-n-coming area of Shoreditch is great. Shoreditch is London’s equivalent to NYC’s West Village. Evan found the place on Airbnb. Not only is it economical but it puts us in a neighborhood of residences and small businesses without the tourists surrounds of a hotel district. We feel right at home sharing space and walking to various neighborhood destinations.

Keeping expenses down is a bit of a challenge. London is one of the most expensive cities in the world, even in its neighborhoods. We spent 20 Pounds ($32) on a Vietnamese soup Pho for dinner with nothing but water to drink. Evan quipped the same dinner in Vietnam would cost $5, and probably around $15 in Seattle. But, hey, most of the terrific museums are free and filled with amazing artifacts and treasurers.  Evan’s favorite is the Geffrey and mine has been the Victoria and Albert.

Cheers,

Mom

Backstory: Last year, my mother retired after 40 years of working. In her life, she was never able to travel much. Rather, she lived her travel ambitions vicariously through me. She has been my biggest fan by always encouraging me to travel.

To start to say thank you, last year I proposed an idea to her: “Mom, come down to Panama. Help me run the apartment/hotel in Casco Viejo. We’ll be super frugal. With the savings, we’ll take a trip. You can pick the destination(s). I just want to pick the travel style – independent, creative, and on a budget.”

Very little persuasion was needed. In no time, she flew down to Panama and helped me run the 4Tulipanes. She was my co-pilot. I ran the operations, while she charmed the guests. We crushed it. It was a banter year for the company.

During that year, we discussed the various travel itineraries. I floated a few trips like China/Japan, Australia/New Zealand, safaris in South Africa. Her response: “Evan, I really want to go to France and Italy. I’ve dreamed about traveling there since I was a little girl.”

Europe – sounds good to me. Scotland and Spain are very high on my bucket list. As an adolescent, Theodore Roosevelt once traveled an entire year with his family through Europe. I’d say his life ended up pretty good.

My mom and I are tapping into every travel resource available. This blog will post our travel progress. I’m reactivating my dormant Couchsurfing.org account. My mom has been active to her account on TrustedHouseSitters.com.

In fact, we already have a house sitting assignment in the English countryside during Christmas. And according to the last email I read from my mom, we might have a house sitting assignment in Cyprus during the month of January. This makes my decision to pack a peacot to protect against the harsh European winters look like a foolish one. But saying no is forbidden while on the road.

Bottomline: The plan is to have NO plan. We are going to travel until the money runs out. So, help us. Comment below with any tips, suggestions, and/or favorite experiences from Europe. Share this post too. Your friends will be of help.

Ciao.